The Key to Perfect Knitting: The gauge Swatch

In the world of knitting, starting a new project is always exciting. However, there is one crucial step that is often overlooked: the gauge swatch. This simple practice can make the difference between a perfectly fitting garment and disappointment when you try it on.

Today, I’ll guide you step by step through creating a gauge swatch, both flat and in the round, how to measure it, and how to use it to ensure the success of your project.

Step 1: Preparing Your Gauge Swatch

The gauge swatch is a square of fabric that you knit before starting your project. First, decide which materials to use: the yarn and needles.

About the Yarn
Ideally, try to use the same yarn suggested in the pattern or one with similar characteristics. This will help you achieve results similar to those shown in the pattern’s photos. To find a comparable yarn, it’s important to consider the composition of the original yarn and its characteristics (such as the number of plies, whether it’s carded or combed, or its twist). You can find this information on the yarn brand’s website or on Ravelry, which has an extensive yarn database. If you don’t want to dive too deep into this, knowing the yarn’s composition is often enough. You’ll also need to know the yarn’s weight (e.g., DK, fingering, lace) or its yardage per 100 grams. This information is typically found on the yarn label.

About the Needles
The pattern will suggest a needle size to use. Start your swatch with that size as a baseline. After knitting and blocking the swatch, you might find you need to adjust the needle size.

Step 2: How to Knit the Swatch

Swatch Size
The number of stitches to cast on should exceed the width of 10 cm. To the stitch count stated in the pattern for the gauge swatch, add edge stitches. For example, if the pattern gauge is 20 stitches over 10 cm, add at least 5 stitches to each edge. This accounts for edge distortion, which prevents accurate measurements that can be extrapolated to a larger fabric.

This also applies to the length of the swatch, which should exceed 10 cm. While we often underestimate the importance of knowing how many rows fit into 10 cm, this can be crucial depending on the design. Some designs allow length adjustments as you knit, but not all. For example, some patterns include specific instructions for shaping the neckline or armholes, which require knowing your row gauge.

Stockinette or Pattern Stitches
If you’re knitting the swatch in stockinette, there’s no need to worry much about the number of stitches cast on. However, if the swatch includes a textured or lace pattern, ensure the number of stitches matches a full pattern repeat (and remember to add edge stitches). The closer your swatch resembles the project, the better.

Swatching in the Round
If your project will be knit in the round, it’s best to knit the swatch that way too. You can use the magic loop method or double-pointed needles to create a small tube. Alternatively, you can knit a hybrid swatch: knit the right-side rows flat and carry the yarn loosely across the back to the beginning of the row. Be careful not to pull the yarn too tight. Once finished, you can either leave the floats intact if they’re not too tight or cut them to flatten the swatch for accurate measurements.

Block Your Swatch
Before measuring, block your swatch the same way you would block your finished garment. Soak it in water for a few minutes, gently remove excess water, and lay it flat to dry. If you use pins to shape it, wait a couple of days before measuring, as the fabric tends to rebound slightly over time.

Step 3: Accurate Measurement

Once your swatch is ready and has rested for a day, measure it. Lay it flat without stretching and use a ruler or tape measure to count how many stitches and rows fit into 10 cm both widthwise and lengthwise. Remember to measure in the center of the swatch.

Step 4: Adjusting Gauge

If your swatch has more stitches than indicated, your tension is too tight—try larger needles. If it has fewer stitches, your tension is too loose—switch to smaller needles. If the difference is significant and cannot be fixed by adjusting one or two needle sizes, consider whether the yarn is suitable for the pattern.

Sometimes, using a yarn that differs from the one suggested can be an opportunity to infuse your project with a personal touch. The results can be stunning, but don’t expect your garment to look exactly like the pattern photos.

Step 5: Applying Your Gauge Swatch

Your swatch is your guide to tailoring the pattern to your knitting style. If your measurements differ from the pattern, calculate how to adjust based on your gauge. Here’s my secret weapon: math.

With simple calculations, you can determine how the pattern measurements translate to your gauge. For example, let’s say your swatch gauge is 19 stitches over 10 cm (1.9 stitches per cm). If the pattern specifies 200 stitches at the bust, divide 200 by 1.9 to get approximately 105 cm for the bust circumference. If this measurement doesn’t work for you, recalculate using the stitch count for a different size.

While this trick works most of the time, don’t forget to check other important measurements like sleeve circumference or yoke depth. Adjustments are easier for plain stockinette designs but can be more challenging for textured or lace patterns.

A gauge swatch is a step you shouldn’t skip. Though it requires patience (and maybe some math), it’s your best guarantee that your hand-knitted garments will fit perfectly. Remember, every knitter has a unique tension—understanding and applying yours is the mark of a skilled artisan.

Do you have a special technique for knitting gauge swatches? Any stories to share? Let’s continue this conversation on Instagram!